The Tour du Mont Blanc or TMB is a hiking route that goes around the highest mountain of the Alps, crossing three countries: France, Italy and Switzerland (Tour du Mont Blanc – Wikipedia).
It is a path that can be divided into various stages based on training and the time available. Typically it is walked in counter-clockwise direction in 12 days. We decided to complete it in five days, making good use of our basic training and a specific organization of the stages which I will explain later. In any case, be aware that it is very demanding in so few days as we did. In fact, at the end our gps recorded 180 km with 10000 m+ and 10000 m-, in about 44 hours.
Before going into the details of the individual days, I’ll leave some general information.
Starting point
The starting point could be any of the towns or places in France, Italy or Switzerland. It is really a personal choice. We decided to start from Chamonix in France. However, differently from what we did few months ago in the Apennines at Via Vandelli (Via Vandelli: info, review and gpx | EmigranTrailer), we wanted to walk/run with a lighter backpack to complete the full loop in five days.
Gears
Therefore, we left our second car in Courmayeur in Italy, more or less at half-way, and we left inside the car all what we need for the remaining three days. This strategy worked well since we always had a light backpack with maximum two changes of clothing and always the equipment required for bad weather conditions. Moreover, we could use two pairs of trail-running shoes, the first from before Courmayeur, the second after Courmayeur.
The path / The route
The path is not always signposted the same way between the valleys and the three nations. In France, you can mainly find a sticker with the writing TMB on a green background and an arrow with counter-clockwise direction. In Italy, you can mainly find the writing TMB inside a rhombus/diamond on a yellow background. In Switzerland, you can often find a rhombus/diamond without any writing inside it.
Differences with UTMB
Please note that there are also possible variations, also linked to personal choices and the desire to explore parts outside the tour. In particular, most of the route is also that of the most famous trail running race in the world: the HOKA UTMB Mont-Blanc – UTMB World Series Finals. So, it is not unusual to find many athletes trying the route in August. For the records, the main differences between TMB and UTMB routes are the following sections:
- from Col de Voza to Les Contamines in France
- from Col de la Seigne to Rifugio Elisabetta in Italy
- from La Peule to Ferret in Switzerland
- from Trient to Vallorcine from Switzerland to France
- before Aiguillette d’Argentiere to La Flégere in France
The weather and the temperature
The weather can be very challenging and variable, especially when you are on paths between 2000m and 3000m for several hours. The first day was very hot and mostly sunny until 4 p.m. when we were already in Les Contamines. Then, a strong storm hit and lasted for several hours. The second day started very cloudy with rain in the morning , few moments of sun around noon and again rain in the early afternoon. The third and fourth days were sunny in the morning and clouded in the afternoon. The last day was mostly rainy with not too many opportunities to admire the surrounding landscape.
Overall the temperature was ideal for spending many hours on the trails. We suffered from the heat only during the first day, and we never suffered from the cold in the highest passes.
The food and drink supply
The route passes through several towns and mountain huts. Therefore, we never had problems with food and water. We traveled on average with 1 liter of water and mineral salts, plus a lot of things to eat.
Let’s go into the details of the individual stages.
TMB_Day 1: Chamonix (FR) – Les Contamines (FR)
- Distance: 31.1 km
- Elevation gain: 1574 m
- Elevation loss: 1439 m
- Date: 13/05/2024
- Start time: 08:48 a.m.
On Tuesday morning we drove to Courmayeur, where we left one of our cars in the parking lot next to the sport center in Dolonne (Courmayeur Sport Center – CourmayeurMontBlanc). We then passed the Mont Blanc tunnel (Home | Traforo del Monte Bianco | Monte Bianco (tunnelmb.net)) and we parked the second car at the Bois du Bouchet, between Chamonix and Les Praz. Our Tour du Mont Blanc started here!
After about a kilometer we arrived and entered Chamonix along the Arve river.
We then walked through the city center and took the path to Les Houches at Les Bossons.
Personally I knew this part of the route very well which after about 7 km led us to the first real climb of our TMB at Le Fouilly.
In about 5 km you climb 600 meters above sea level to reach Col De Voza (1665 m).
Here the indications on the signs can be misleading. After crossing the railway tracks, you have to go up on the left following the direction towards Bellevue. Once at the top there is an abandoned hotel and you can enjoy a wonderful view of Mont Blanc.
From Bellevue to the Col de Tricot it is a beautiful path, initially in the woods, then with a very suggestive crossing over a Tibetan bridge, and finally with the panoramic climb up to the Col.
The descent from Col de Tricot is initially very steep and quickly leads to the Refuge de Miage. After crossing the streams that descend from the Domes de Miage, you go up again for a couple of hundred meters to Le Truc. Looking back you can appreciate the descent from the Col de Tricot.
The next 5 kilometers lead to Les Contamines-Montjoie (Les Contamines-Montjoie – Wikipedia) where there are shops and supermarkets for every need.
For the first night we slept in an apartment just after Les Contamines, along the TMB route.
TMB_Day 2: Les Contamines (FR) – Courmayeur (IT)
- Distance: 48.9 km
- Elevation gain: 2959 m
- Elevation loss: 2928 m
- Date: 14/05/2024
- Start time: 06:27 a.m.
On the second day we woke up very early, knowing that the day would be very long (about 12 hours) and with possible longer breaks to avoid the strong thunderstorms expected in the afternoon in Valle d’Aosta.
We walked along the Chemin du Praz, skirting the stream, a lake and the golf courses. After about 2.5 km we arrived at Notre Dame de la Gorge. From here the first long climb of the day began.
The first 3 km of climb are quite steep, initially on stone slabs and then on an easy mule track. The rain did not spare us, it was heavy but not with excessive amounts of water. It then temporarily stopped when we left the woods, when the landscape opened up in front of us, in an area with several camping areas.
We then passed by the Refuge de la Balme, but without stopping. The climb became steeper again for at least a couple of kilometres, up to the junction for Lacs Jover and Col du Bonhomme. We obviously went towards the Col.
Going up the weather remained cloudy, saving us from more rain which was instead expected in a couple of hours. We were thus able to enjoy the beautiful color contrasts.
After about 2 hours and 9 km from the start we arrived at Plan des Dames.
From here, in about 45 minutes, we easily reached Col De Bonhomme.
At the Col the wind was blowing stronger and in the distance we could clearly see the clouds full of water moving towards our direction. We took shelter from the wind in a small hut, where we also took a food break before the last part of the climb towards the Col de la Crox de Bonhomme.
The path towards the Col de la Crox de Bonhomme is very scenic and just after the summit there is a short descent to the Refuge (Accueil, Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (ffcam.fr)).
At the Refuge we had a hot coffee and a slice of cake and checked the weather forecast, to understand whether it would be more appropriate to let the disturbance pass or continue descending at a slightly faster pace. We opted for the second choice and we did well.
In fact, we ran the first few kilometers downhill and completely avoided the rain and storm. Even in the last part of the descent a bit of blue sky reappeared that we hadn’t seen since the first day.
At Les Chapieux we refilled our water bottles, we had a chat with a very kind operator at the information point who told us what we already knew (heavy rain from 2 pm in Valle d’Aosta) and we set off towards the second long climb of the day.
The climb towards Col de La Seigne is very long (about 11 km), but it is also much less steep than the first of the day. Furthermore, it is a climb with often points where the gradient decreases. So it’s very nice to walk. We really enjoyed it.
During the climb we passed many walkers and several runners in training. Then at the top we found the typical placeholder crossing the hills of the Aosta Valley. In fact, the Col de La Seigne separates France from Italy and as soon as at the top you have the opportunity to enjoy a beautiful view of the Val Veny with the Pyramides Calcaires clearly visible on the left.
From the Col de la Seigne we then quickly descended towards Rifugio Elisabetta (2195 m) (Benvenuti al rifugio elisabetta).
Here we took a second break with coffee and desserts and we evaluated the weather conditions again since we were precisely in the time window of expected heavy rainfall.
As we were leaving the Rifugio the rain started but we decided to continue because in any case we would have had a further support point at the Rifugio Combal after just 4 kilometres, if it had been necessary.
There were several minutes of alternation between very heavy rain and light rain. In any case, the most violent storm seemed to be downstream, towards Courmayeur. Therefore, we occasionally took shelter with other walkers under some trees, never stopping for more than 5 minutes.
The rain then stopped just as we began the last climb of the day.
I know these trails very well and the view is beautiful without clouds but it was wonderful even with the clouds.
The climb then gives way to a slight slope downhill which ends upon arrival at Maison Vielle (Benvenuti | Rifugio La Maison Vieille di Giacomo – Bar Ristorante Col Checrouit – Courmayeur – Valle d’Aosta).
After a long day on the trails, the final descent of around 6 km should not be underestimated. Especially the steep part in the woods, just before arriving in Dolonne, the hamlet of Courmayeur where we had parked our other car.
After washing ourselves, packing up our backpack for the next three days, and after eating a well-deserved pizza in the city (Pizzeria du Tunnel – La Più Antica Pizzeria Ristorante a Courmayeur Mont Blanc), we then went to bed in a rather special hotel!
TMB_Day 3: Courmayeur (IT) – La Fouly (CH)
- Distance: 34.0 km
- Elevation gain: 2038 m
- Elevation loss: 1612 m
- Date: 15/05/2024
- Start time: 07:40 a.m.
The next morning we woke up to a beautiful sunrise overlooking the Dente del Gigante.
Since the second day had been long and demanding, we opted for a slightly later departure from Courmayeur Sport Center in Dolonne.
After crossing the center of Courmayeur we began the first climb of the day: the one towards Rifugio Bertone (www.rifugiobertone.it |). It’s a fairly steep climb but with numerous hairpin bends that ease the effort. The last bend before the Rifugio certainly provides one of the most beautiful views of Mont Blanc.
From the same bend you can admire the city of Courmayeur and the surrounding valley.
After a short break at the hut where I know the owners, we continued for a few tens of meters and stopped again to admire Mont Blanc, at the point where the so-called “balcony between Bertone and Bonatti” begins in Val Ferret.
In fact, this part (about 8 km) of the tour offers a view of the entire Mont Blanc chain, the various glaciers and Val Ferret which is certainly among the most beautiful of the Tour, if not the most beautiful, especially on a non-rainy and not excessively cloudy day.
The route continues with continuous ups and downs until you reach Arnuova di Mezzo. Here begins the descent towards Arnuova Desot. From Arnuova the climb towards Rifugio Elena begins and you have a beautiful view of the Aguille de Triolet (3870 m) and Mont Dolent (3820 m) with their respective glaciers.
At the Rifugio Elena (Rifugio Elena – Il Rifugio) we had lunch and checked the weather forecast, seeing as rain was waiting for us again in the early afternoon.
After lunch we continued uphill to reach the Grand Col Ferret, where we covered ourselves given the wind and threatening rain clouds.
We then began the descent into Swiss territory, planning to stop in La Peule after about 4 km for a further coffee and dessert break.
The last part of the day was an easy descent towards La Fouly, passing Ferret and Le Clou.
We then had dinner and stayed overnight at the Auberge des Glaciers (Auberge des glaciers à La Fouly – Auberge et Restaurant), definitely full of walkers and hikers.
TMB_Day 4: La Fouly (CH) – Trient (CH)
- Distance: 32.2 km
- Elevation gain: 1347 m
- Elevation loss: 1653 m
- Date: 16/05/2024
- Start time: 07:24 a.m.
We woke up still very fit and well rested. We therefore decided to cover the fourth (short and easy) stage, running the first kilometers all downhill leading from La Fouly to the base of the climb to Champex-Lac. The weather was still on our side with beautiful clear skies.
After about an hour and a half of jogging downhill we began the climb towards Champex-Lac, where we stopped for the classic coffee break of the day and we enjoyed the view of the lake.
The following 3 km were downhill on an easy path and then it began the longest climb of the day. I know this part of the TMB very well having raced on these trails in former years. Personally I find it to be the least exciting part from a landscape point of view. You don’t climb very high and only when you arrive in Bovine after about 10 km from Champex-Lac you can once again enjoy the view of the mountains and valleys around.
After Bovine we headed back downhill into the woods. The first part is quite technical with roots and stones along the path. Subsequently it becomes easier and leads to the Col de la Forclaz, particularly known to cyclists, given that it is a frequent passage during the Tour de France.
From the pass to Trient it is then another 3 kilometers downhill.
We arrived there just in time to enjoy a good lunch and to get our accomodation at Auberge du Mont Blanc (Auberge Mont-Blanc – TRIENT – Refuge Tour du Mont-Blanc (montourdumontblanc.com)). The sun kept us company for another two hours. Then, many clouds and even rain arrived and they will both be our travel companions for the last day.
TMB_Day 5: Trient (CH) – Chamonix (FR)
- Distance: 34.3 km
- Elevation gain: 2037m
- Elevation loss: 2257m
- Date: 17/05/2024
- Start time: 07:16 a.m.
Waking up in the morning made us understand that during stage 5 the number of photos and breaks to admire the landscape would have been particularly limited.
From Trient the climb towards the Col de Balme begins almost immediately. The first part is all in the woods. Then once we exited the woods we should have enjoyed a beautiful view of the Col de Balme and the Croix de Fer (2343 m). Unfortunately the fog, clouds and sometimes rain left us with no alternative but to walk.
After a short break at the Refuge de Col de Balme and some small uncertainty about the path to go down due to the fog, we headed towards Vallorcine. Unfortunately, a few kilometers from Vallorcine I suffered a bad ankle sprain that was operated on in 2022 and we had to slow down a bit.
We then stopped in Vallorcine for a coffee and to rest the injuried ankle.
We then set off towards the Col des Montets. Here, you enter the Aiguilles Rouges protected area (Réserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges Chamonix-Mont-Blanc : Patrimoine naturel de la vallée de Chamonix-Mont-Blanc à Chamonix-Mont-Blanc).
After about 20 km from the departure from Trient we began the final climb of the whole Tour. We climbed in the direction of the Aiguillette d’Argentiere (1893 m), but as soon as we arrived at the somewhat exposed passage with three vertical stairs to climb, we decided that it would be safer to divert onto the path of the UTMB which passed further down. In fact, the rain, the fog and even the lack of knowledge of the conditions after that passage did not guarantee us to complete the tour safely.
We then went back (we extended the loop for a total of 2 km) and took the known path which from there leads to La Flégere after about 5 km.
The weather continued to be quite inclement until we returned to Chamonix. Here we treated ourselves to a delicious lunch to celebrate the end of our Tour du Mont Blanc: beautiful and with many special moments of sharing.
Additional information
If you want more information or technical details related to this route, please do not hesitate to contact me or comment below.
Other information about ideas for explorations here: Exploring Routes | EmigranTrailer.
Other information about races, results and equipments here: Trail & Running | EmigranTrailer.
Enjoy Hiking & Trail Running!
Andrea De Filippo
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